Early '60's [pre-'69] Internationals pickups had either the BD or BG engine...BD signifying the Black Diamond series, and there's a lot of discussion as to what the BG actually stood for. Most common explanation was the blue-gray color they were painted.
The BD's came in 220, 240, and 264 cubic inches. In the '60's they all would be what was known as a tilt-valve engine[as differentiated from the straight-valve Silver Diamond 220 and 240, and the straight-valve BD 220 and 240 of the mid-1950's]...tilt valve engines having a slightly wider valve cover. The BG engines' primary difference from the BD engines was a sealed crankcase ventilation system and a PCV valve, rather than a breather cap at the oil filler on the valve cover and a road draft tube on the tappet cover. And even though the BG engines were the same bore and stroke as the BD's, they were designated BG-221, BG-241, and BG-265.
They're a reliable engine with a broad torque curve, but the factory redline is usually around 3600-3800 rpm. Couple that with a relatively low gear ratio, and while you might pull a house down with one in good shape, you'll not win many races.
If you're looking to make money on one, you probably won't. The engines are not all that hard to work on, with Holley carbs and Delco distributors, starters, and generators/alternators. MOST engine parts are available at your local NAPA, but pistons are hard to come by these days...think Egge Machine for those.
The cowl vents run to the underside of the dash, and after all these years they're prone to rusting, particularly around the vent flapper valves. Clutch linkage is hydraulic, so if the truck's been sitting a long time, expect to have to bleed the system. Up though '66, IH used a common brake/clutch master cylinder, utilizing a single reservoir for both, with separate pistons.
Manual transmissions were usually Borg-Warner units, as was the automatic transmission of that era. Power steering is rare on these, with a Ross steering gear and a hydraulic assist cylinder. Rear ends on the 1/2 and 3/4 tons may have been Dana 44 or Dana 60, OR they could be an IH corporate design [based upon an Eaton design]. If the rear diff looks like a Ford 9-inch, it's the IH corporate rear...and parts for that, other than bearings and seals, are pretty scarce. Good things thse rear ends seemed to last forever. If, OTOH, the rear end has a rear cover that bolts on, it's a Dana, and parts are universally available for them. Some 6o's 1/2 tons with the Powr-Lock rear end had Dana 60's under them, with the small 5-on 4-1/2" bolt circle wheels...rare, but a great find.
What are they worth? Jeez, I don't know anymore. I've bought 'em in running condition for $100 and drove 'em home, and I've seen $5-$7,000 asking prices on eBay for trucks that didn't look that much better. But I hope some of the information I've offered up is helpful to you.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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