Typically a small 3 bottom or less plow, that right wheel needs to be crowded in as much as possible, and it will be the one doing most of the pulling. Fortunately it also typically gets most of the traction.
I'm not so familiar with 3 point plows, use(d) trailer & semi-mounted. Many plows allow you to shift the plow over to the right, while keeping the linkage points kinda centered on the tractor.
An M is probably more of a 3-14 size tractor, little wider frame than an H or Ford N tractor which are more of a 2-14 size tractor. It might just be sort of a little bit mismatched no matter what you do?
M didn't come with a 3pt, so that's aftermarket, and might not be 100% angled correct for what a 'factory tractor' 3pt specs would be. Should be able to make it work, but you are likely bending a few unwritten rules here, and will have to tinker with it?
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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