I'm not really sure what 1/2" headed bolt you're talking about, unless it's on the round part of the body near the rear,that's one of the screws securing the hydraulic head. At any rate, it sounds like you're relieving housing pressure when you loosen the bolt. If this is the case, the return elbow in the pump cover may be plugged. It may be an orifice or a spring-and-ball affair, but the function is the same, to maintain 6-12 PSI in the housing. If the housing pressure is too high, the cam ring will become fully retarded to the point where it won't run. Another possibility could be the regulator sleeve or plunger within the charge pump jammed (on the rear of the injector pump). This could also cause high housing pressure. It's possible you disturbed something when you changed the filters, since pump trouble cropped up only an hour later. However, for that to be true, the teeny inlet screen ahead of the pump would have to be damaged or missing. I would replace any original rubber hoses in the fuel system. The fix for the return elbow is obvious, but if you want to go after the regulator, you will have to remove the pump from the tractor; this must be done in a clean place. Get yourself a cutaway view or an exploded diagram of your pump (I&T is good) and go to it. when you get down to the regulator adjusting screw, measure it's depth or count the turns to remove it. Good luck! Fritz.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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