If it ran when parked, make sure the fuel shut-off lever isn't getting stiff in the pump cover and bending the cable when you push it back in. Better yet, just disconnect it and make sure the lever is all the way forward,then try to start it. If it has electric shut off (ESO) solenoid, (on the back of the pump, near the fuel inlet),make sure you have 12 volts at this wire. Was there lots of white smoke while you were pulling it around? If so, you don't have fuel system trouble. Your compression could be down, and the last time you ran it was the last time it was going to start by itself. If some white smoke, or none at all, and you've spent considerable time bleeding it, the drive shaft may have sheared off in the hydraulic head. You can check this by removing the pump cover and bump the starter to see if it turns. (The REAR pump, the one that pressurizes the housing.) That's pretty rare, but definitely a reality if you've had water in the fuel recently. But please, make sure you have heavy fuel flow at the pump first. Did you shut the fuel off and forget to turn it back on? Make no mistake, that's happened to all of us! Fritz.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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