Got the Case version of this baler, and yes, the twine cutter design is pretty bad, IMO. It took a long time to get this thing to cut reliably, and I can't say it still works 100%. What I found was the twine wouldn't stay in the "table" long enough so the knife could catch it, the arm would drag it past the knife to the outside of the machine. So I installed a hooked pin made if a piece of threaded rod that kept the twine where the knife was. You need to position it carefully so the knife doesn't catch it when opening and closing. That got it to about 100%, and you didn't have to do the thing where after wrapping you move the arm back in to about the 30% mark. Just finish laying the twine on the right side of the bake and release the arm.
On the cone shaped bales, this baler ain't for someone who just likes to drive around while the baler tells you what to do - no fancy sensors or monitors or other stuff to tell you which side is light or heavy. YOU need to MAKE the bale. I can make nice bales with it 19 times out of 20, but good consistent windrows are almost a necessity. But not too big, as the other thing that sucks about this baler is the pickup is very narrow - it's between the wheels rather than in front of the wheels like most balers - real easy to leave droppings...
I've had no problems with moldy bales as long as I'm baling good hay, but we do cover our bales.
This baler is on our short list to be replaced, the biggest thing we're looking for in an upgrade is net wrap...
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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