Do remember to push ahead on the socket before you turn the bolt. This will disengage the lock... Also, if it doesn't turn it's possible that the mechanism is seized. What that bolt does is simply turn a gear that is in mesh with a large ring in the back of the clutch cover. The ring is threaded into the cover and it pushes against the pressure plate. The ring can and often does seize. If it does you will need to pound on the clutch cover to see if it will free up. If not you drop the transmission.
Also... generally speaking... if you have not changed the free travel in the clutch linkage, DO NOT change the FREE TRAVEL in the linkage. Any clutch adjustments on these clutches are made on the adjuster ring as described. What you're aiming to do on that adjustment is bring the pressure plate back so that the distance between the release bearing and transmission cover is about 1/2" (without clutch brake) or basically until the clutch brake disc is tight with the pedal fully depressed if it has the clutch brake.
Again, if you can't get it adjusted, you need to drop the tranny to change the clutch. Also... the adjuster bolt will break off if you try hard enough...
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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