Do remember to push ahead on the socket before you turn the bolt. This will disengage the lock... Also, if it doesn't turn it's possible that the mechanism is seized. What that bolt does is simply turn a gear that is in mesh with a large ring in the back of the clutch cover. The ring is threaded into the cover and it pushes against the pressure plate. The ring can and often does seize. If it does you will need to pound on the clutch cover to see if it will free up. If not you drop the transmission.
Also... generally speaking... if you have not changed the free travel in the clutch linkage, DO NOT change the FREE TRAVEL in the linkage. Any clutch adjustments on these clutches are made on the adjuster ring as described. What you're aiming to do on that adjustment is bring the pressure plate back so that the distance between the release bearing and transmission cover is about 1/2" (without clutch brake) or basically until the clutch brake disc is tight with the pedal fully depressed if it has the clutch brake.
Again, if you can't get it adjusted, you need to drop the tranny to change the clutch. Also... the adjuster bolt will break off if you try hard enough...
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers WD45 (Gas Version) - by Staff. Beginning production in 1953, the WD45 had the same general look as the WD tractor which was produced earlier - but was much more powerful. This was due to the new 4-cylinder "Power Crater" gasoline engine with a 4 x 4-1/2 inch bore and stroke. Some people feel this was one of the most significant tractors offered by Allis-Chalmers in those days. Nothing in its weight or power class could match its performance. In 1954 they began offering the WD45 with the new "Snap-Coupler&quo
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