whatever type of plow,mounted ,drag ,walking ,whatever,raise back of plow bottoms to make it dig deeper.plow suction holds it to its work,or in other words keeps it in the ground. I am not at all familiar wih your particular plow,but this is universal.no way around it.on a drag or trailer plow,Hitch hieght is how you set this,on a three point plow the toplink does.Is yours a mounted three point type plow,or a trailer plow? on a trailer plow you set hitch height at the hitch clevis,this is not where it hooks to the tractor drawbar,but where the hitch of the plow connects to the beams basically.Normally there will be a series of holes to adjust hitch height,or on some a screw adjustment at same location to set this.proper hitch hieght is set when you can pull a string,in a straight line from a point 1/2 the depth of furrow,(depth is normally 1/2 plow width)to attachment on tractor drawbar.The exact same thing happens on a mounted plow but its much harder to see.all this simply means,if you have a three point plow SHORTEN your toplink.ALL moldboard plows are designed to pull flat,,plow suction holds them down..by raising back of bottoms up plow has to dig deeper to run flat.simple huh!back when we plowed with horses,the same principals applied.you set hitch hieght,to make plow pull flat at proper depth,and pushed down on handles to make rear of plow deeper and cause plow to pull out of ground.heres a tip for you,,ALL and you can safely say ALL,ground engaging equipment work this way.culivator,chisel plow,gang type disk etc etc all work on the same principal and must have hitch height set..if not pull on front will either raise front or rear..even a disc plow must have hitch hieght set. many times guys will try to make a gang type disc dig better by lowering front,and then cuss the implement for ridging,but they are designed to run flat.and to give the best penetration that way.pull up on front and it rolls out of ground. pull down in front, and rear rides out of ground. hope this helps!
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