If it were internal to the transmission there would be some sort of clatter or grinding or ka-BANG!, and it would happen exactly ONCE.
The clutch is slipping all the time, gets hot, and won't hold anymore. Give it a few minutes to cool and it will hold again for a while. Of course it will run longer from cold because it takes time for heat to build up. Just sitting there for 5-10 minutes only lets some of the heat dissipate.
It doesn't do it when you're not mowing because the mower puts a tremendous load on the drivetrain!
There's no way to know for sure what's wrong until you start taking things apart. You don't have X-ray vision. We don't have X-ray vision. Time to get the wrenches out and get busy.
My recommendation is that you drop the belly pump and pull the clutch through the bottom. If the clutch is indeed shot, you can then split the tractor and resurface the flywheel if you think it's necessary. Otherwise, you haven't put a whole lot of effort into tearing the tractor apart unnecessarily.
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Today's Featured Article - Two-Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. Whether for product liability or because the aftermarket parts and labor business is lucrative, this concept is disturbingly prevalent. Fortunately when you step into your shop and make that jump 50 years back in time to work with your old tractor, this concept goes out the window. Even so, when it comes to the charging system, people quickly revert to this idea and start replacing the major components one at a time until it works. The reason you don't find any decals in your replacement set wit
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