I forget the spec too - it's very high - I believe the manual use a 10' breaker bar on it with 50 pound force - something like that. (to test the clutch of course - NOT on the bolts themselves)
I'm wondering though if you're sure it's the clutch itself that's slipping, or is it the overdrive ratchet part (for lack of knowing what the real word is)
Where the pto shaft comes in, that usually has block with two little spring loaded "dogs" (that you can't see) and they ride in a groove on the face of the clutch and in that is a series of ramped teeth (which you can see).
Sometimes those springs can give out - or the two dogs (steel dowel pins) can get worn, etc.
So if that happens, pto shaft can spin, but the rest of the clutch won't.
It can happen intermittently, and it can give the appearance of the clutch slipping if you don't look closely and/or don't think it through.
I've seen that situation happen more often than the actual clutch slipping.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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