Your manual is quoting distributor rpm and not engine. Therefore the 20 degree advance at 800 rpm would be equivalent to 40 degree advance at 1600 rpm. That 40 degree advance was for the original cast iron piston with standard bore. If you have installed a thin wall sleeve and aluminum pistons the degrees drop to 30 degrees at full advance at engine. If you have a high alt piston or fire crater the advance continues to drop to close to 22 degrees. Over advance causes detonation and lack of power with damage to pistons. If you adjust a 40 degree advance distributor to have 30 degrees at full throttle you of course will be late at low speed and not run freely. You can take the distributor apart and fill in the hole in plate that controls maximum advance and then play with the springs by curling the ends to get close to what ever advance gives you the best performance. It takes trial and error. You can get different distributor shafts and correct springs for that shaft also if you want to go that route. I have no idea what pistons you have so can't say what advance you actually need.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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