Well, I found out that the cap screw was tight, but for some reason, the shaft that it screws into, is able to slide almost a half inch forward, so that the gear that turns engine speed, and the gear that is turned by it, aren't even in contact with each other! That is, the middle gear, with 56 teeth, is able to get completely out of sync with the pump gear and the gear that turns with the engine. It appears that it had the seasonal disconnect for that shaft, and that somebody deleted it and put in something that makes the shaft able to move too far forward...I'm gonna go into it some more this afternoon....but I ordered the correct snap ring that it supposed to prevent that forward movement, I just don't see a groove to put it in. Pete 23, could I send you an email so that I can elaborate on what it looks like? Thanks, Hugh
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Basics: Spark Plug Cleaning - by Staff. Cleaning procedures: Brush or blow dirt from around the spark plug base. Remove the plug with a correctly fitted wrench. Examine the porcelain insulator and points. If the insulator appears to be melted or blistered, cracked or broken, and the points seem unduly burned it is evident that the plug is operating too hot and it should be replaced with a colder plug. If the plug is fouled excessively with carbon it apparently is operating too cold and it should be replac
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