The proper technique in that situation, at least the way I've been taught, is to raise the front of the plow slightly to keep moving. If that doesn't help, raise the rear too.
You don't want to just bull through, and you probably can't. All you'll do is dig a hole and get the tractor stuck. It's better to leave wet patches just skimmed over, or even unplowed, than to try and plow everything to the exact same depth.
In these situations the draft control is actually fighting you. When you lose traction the draft control says, "Oh it's pulling easier, I'm going to sink 'er in deeper!" You have to make manual adjustments or the draft control is going to drop the plow like an anchor in the soft wet ground.
That tractor should be able to pull the plow in at least 3rd.
Pull the TA to slow down near the end of a row, or when the tractor starts lugging. Pulling it while the tractor is spinning just makes it spin slower, so it takes longer to get yourself stuck.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor: Conclusion - by Anthony West. In the last piece I mentioned that Nuffield had reached the stage where they had chosen to drop the "Universal" from production. The two new models were given three figure numbers, instead of "three" and "four". Model numbers were introduced to help farmers and dealers instantly recognize the engine size and horsepower of the tractor, the 4/60 had a four cylinder diesel engine which developed 60 bhp at 2,000 rpm. The 3/42 had a 3 cylinder diesel engine which produced 42 bhp at 2,000 rpm. Th
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