The clutch pedal has a square headed stop bolt with a lock nut just below where the linkage from the front attaches to the pedal itself. Assuming the free travel has been set at 1 in from the deck plate, and the T/A lever linkage has been adjusted to give the correct free travel, per the manual, it sounds as if the new clutch has " worked itself in", I would back the stop bolt off a turn at a time until the tranny doesn't grind when going into gear. The clutch has "worn in" since you have really been working the tractor, that's all. If adjusting the stop bolt doesn't fix the grinding into gear, then the advice given above would be a good place to start.
The only other issue I can think of is on my 55 F300, the T/A "stops" the tranny when pushing the clutch pedal all the way down when stopped, about 1/2 to 3/4 in from the bottom the clutch is released from the engine and the T/A is just beginning to catch on the way out ? Hopefullly... someone more experienced here can explain it better, but I could never get the free travel, clutch pedal, T/A lever adjustment synchronized until I purchased a manual, once I adjusted everything in sequence to the manual & to the specs given, no more shifting problems.
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Today's Featured Article - The Day Mom Drove the 8N - by Brian Browning. My Dad was wanting to put in a garden but couldn't operate the 8N and handle the old horse drawn plow he had found and rigged up to use with the tractor. Well, he decided to go get Mom out of the house and have her drive the tractor while he walked behind the plow. You got to understand that while my Mom is a hard worker who will always help whenever she can... she had never operated farm machinery before that day. Dad got her out there, explained how the clutch was the same as in our o
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