Take the wire off of the distributor at the distributor. With plastic handled pliers, brush it against a ground (shiny metal) with the ignition turned on. If it sparks a little when touched to ground, there is voltage where it should be. Shut off the ignition. Next open the cap and put a small piece of plastic (strip of butter tub lid or the like) between the points. Now, while the cap is off, and the ignition on, touch that loose wire to the distributor terminal where it belongs. If it sparks a little there, the points are grounded to the distributor housing and it could be the condenser wire, or the through stud, or insulator that are causing the problem. There should be no spark. Next remove the plastic, and make sure the points are together. Now touch the wire to the terminal if no spark, the points are not conducting, and need to be cleaned and polished. A good polish is a paper match striker stripe. Then wipe them with a folded dollar bill. (no lint) The point gap is .020" when the cam is pushing the points open as far as possible (High point of the 4 lobes) If there is wobble in the distributor cam, it will never run correctly. The movement must be less than .001" at the cam. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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