While you are waiting on a new spring; You can shorten your old spring by cutting off the hook and then bending a new hook from the remaining portion (essentially both shortens and stiffens the spring).
I went through this on a Farmall M. I had to actually shorten my spring twice actually as it was very loose. (my fly weights were surprising not sloppy on the pivots which can also be another seperate issue) When I shortened my spring the first time, it improved my problems but did not quite get me to spec. When I shortened it the second time, then I hit perfection on both low idle and high idle. I may eventually order a new spring and put in there, but until then I am in business.
Also take a putty knife and clean all the crud, grease, and grime away from that area between the engine block and the external arm on the outside of the governor assembly as that can cause issues
I verified all my settings with a handheld friction drive tachometer on the PTO shaft. A handheld tach is a good way to very your dash tach is working properly - although you do need to know at what rpm the PTO should spin at low idle and high idle. I have seen NOS Stewart Warner Ones on ebay for $25-$30 or so which is an incredibly good deal. Dad paid over $70 for his Stewart Warner tach back in the 1970's for use on combine shafts and $70 in the 1970's was a lot of money back then as it had lots of buying power - unlike today sadly.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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