Started out as a moisture problem. Had been raining for days, tried to start the tractor and got nothing.
Used a heat gun on the points and inside the cap, got it to start but it ran REALLY rough, 3 cylinders at best and one of them not all the time. Lotta backfiring through the muffler. Seemed to run a little better if I retarded the mag to just short of cutoff. Next morning it wouldn't start at all.
Took the mag off, cleaned and regapped the points, put new wires and plugs in, no change.
Took the mag back off, swapped the condenser, double checked that it was timed correctly (#1 on TDC, verified by checking the valve lash).
Took the carb off, cleaned it (a little crud in the bottom of the bowl, passages all clear, no sign of water, no big issues) verified that it was getting fuel, left the air cleaner connection off for now.
Also checked compression, 90 PSI +/- on all cylinders.
Watched the rocker arms while cranking (electric start) and no sign of stuck valve(s).
Prior to this problem it has been running like a top and starting right up. If I wasn't already bald, I would be from scratching my head.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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