If I remember correct from the friction disc hub to the fingers is about 1-5/8. That's just a ball park number though. Think you need to split behind the engine and start over with the t/a clutch. If using the same main clutch, set the correct free play for it before removing the engine. When all the t/a clutch parts and linkage is in to spec. Turn the transmission shaft by hand to make sure the t/a clutch releases when the clutch pedal is pushed down. also when the t/a lever is pulled back before the engine is installed. 360655 is a 300 shaft. The 350 shaft will move the release bearing more if the clutch shaft movement was equal for both. 350 clutch pedal has the clutch rod hole closer to the pivot point than a 300. But a 300 has a stop bolt to limit clutch pedal travel so they end up close. But if parts from the two are mixed you can have a problem.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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