Low ash oil, correct octane gasoline, correct ign timing and do not over look the valve seats. Most of them get loose in the head. A valve transfers most of it's heat to the head through the valve seat. If that seat does not not transfer heat as well as it should, the valve stem carries more heat. This in turn can cause that valve to stick for an instant and torch out. I put in a lot of over size valve seats in the 263 engine, even before IH introduced LOW ASH oil to get me out of the woods on valve burning. This was when we had so called good gasoline also, like 1964, 65. We had the same problems with that very similar engine used in trucks. They used to cup the valves so there was no clearance, reset them and in a couple trips, same old thing. Then IH came with a plate to block off the heat riser in manifold. That helped but was not really a cure. In a truck, drivers just held the pedal to the metal and they melted down. Had the same problem with my inlaws old chev powerglide. Local shop had installed valve seats and they were not tight. It would burn the valve in a couple thousand miles. I was young and learning and didn't recognize the seat problem for a couple of valve job. Cured it though.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Best Tractor? - by Staff. This recent discussion on the Tractor Talk discussion board here at the on-line magazine drew quite a bit of response. We see the question of "Which tractor is best for me?" asked quite often. We thought you might find the responses interesting. As always, the names of the people participating in the discussion have been left out - we did not request their permission to reprint their names in this article. However you can find this discussion in it's entirety in the Tractor Talk archives.
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