Posted by Janicholson on January 16, 2013 at 19:36:49 from (74.60.94.18):
In Reply to: 47 m cracked rear case posted by Brady miller on January 16, 2013 at 17:46:12:
If the crack is new, it is most likely the ball bearing issue mentioned below. If it is old and has been operated for many years and the axle is nt loose, it may be OK. I would still do the following if it is an old issue. Lift the side of the tractor that on which the crack appears. Lift on the axle housing and block the housing with cribbing to assure safety. Lower the oil level in the case by removing the plug till at least all oil in that chamber is removed. (10 gallons is likely.) Remove the PTO unit from the rear. Through that hole you can feel around in the bottom of the case to retrieve parts if any. Use a magnet pickup tool to get everything. Have a helper with a 2X4X8 pry on the tire and wheel while you feel inside to determine if the bull gear is moving up and down any. A few thousandths is OK a quarter inch is not. If it moves a bunch, the top will need to come off, and the the bull gear and axle housing taken apart to change the bearing. I think the best plan would then be to weld the case from inside and out to repair the crack. A 1/4" deep V groove, and cold welding with Ni rod (short 1/2" beads. then hammer peening with a pick hammer, then more weld, never letting it get hot, 20 minutes of cooling for 30 seconds or less of welding. Will make a permanent repair. If ground and finished on the outside the repair will disappear. Best of luck Jim
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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