One pretty simple way to get the full voltage to the coil on start is to put a #12 wire from the starter side of the big starter switch (hot when the starter is turning) take this wire to the ballast resistor and put a 4 amp diode on the end so that the electricity can flow to the ignition, but not back to the starter. connect the other end of the diode to the coil side of the ballast resistor. That simple change is equal to the replacement of the starter switch system to add an isolation ignition bypass. If the diode is in backwards, it will melt the ballast resistor. I am not sure I like the idea of the battery voltage dropping that much in 15 seconds. It should stay above 12.5 volts until the starter is engaged. Check cranking voltage (carefully in neutral with a helper) it should be at 10.8 or better while cranking unless it is way cold. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Two-Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. Whether for product liability or because the aftermarket parts and labor business is lucrative, this concept is disturbingly prevalent. Fortunately when you step into your shop and make that jump 50 years back in time to work with your old tractor, this concept goes out the window. Even so, when it comes to the charging system, people quickly revert to this idea and start replacing the major components one at a time until it works. The reason you don't find any decals in your replacement set wit
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