A compression check is done with a screw in compression gauge. If you don't have mechanics tools, you will. A good compression tester from a real tool company will be in the area of 35$ to 100+ bucks, Craftsman for 58 is pretty good. The engine has all plugs removed. The coil is disconnected (the distributor side of the coil is a good place to disconnect) The Throttle is open wide Fuel shut off is off Fully charges good battery to spin it fast. Put the tester in #1 cylinder (front) Crank the engine for 5 compression strokes (you can hear it easily) Look at the gauge and record the data on a tablet. Do the same for each cylinder. Use a squirt oil can and put three squirts of engine oil in each spark plug hole, spin the engine with the starter to spread the oil Repeat the test now. Report back to us for diagnosis. Generally the compression should be (IIRC) 140 to 160 PSI If uniform, (within 10 % of each other) that is also good. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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