Of course all questions depend on how perfect you want your results to be.
Assuming you want good, but perhaps not show winning results -
1.) All sheet metal should come off and be painted separately. Wheels should come off - ideally tires would come off too - but not necessary, just take the time to mask them well. Overspray on tires makes the whole job look ameteurish. In a perfect world, the entire tractor should be dissassembled and sandblasted and parts should be painted individually. But, you'll save a LOT of time painting everthing as one unit.
Bigger question on how best to paint it is how best to clean it and prep it.
2.) always a good idea to be sure things run first - then when you put it back together and it doesn't start, you're not looking at 20 different variables of what's not working.
3.) Spray outside, not in direct sun. yes you'll worry about dust and bugs - if you can wait till fall bugs will be less of an issue. Paint indoors or in a booth and your need for supplied air goes up - especially if you're using hardner in the paint. Temperature is important, but only has to be in the range specified by the paint.
4.) TSC is changing their paint line - the valspar restoration series was ok - but jury is still out on the Magic stuff they're selling now. For primer - I'd go with epoxy because it's water proof. If the paint gets scratched, the primer will still protect the metal. It's expensive, but not too crazy. On sheet metal I'd also do a layer of "surfacer" - works great to smooth things out with a real light sanding.
5.) Read the paint instructions for environment requirements. Usually just boils down to avoiding extremes with temp and humidity. Avoid direct sun when spraying, but ok for drying. I've painted and had parts rained heavily on 5 minutes later and they're fine. But you certainly need to keep your air dry from the compressor - use a good water trap.
6.) You can put things together the next day. If you use hardner, it should be pretty solid. If you don't - the paint is going to scratch VERY easily for about a month - but just go easy assembling part.
Expect to go over the entire tractor doing touch up after assembly.
I'll add #7 - start with your least favorite tractor! It's all pretty easy, but get you will make mistakes and learn a lot along the way.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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