Were it mine, I would clean and wire brush the upper part of those two cylinders. Then, if they were surface rusted, and not pitted deeply, I would determine which way they were headed so as to not try to reverse the engine (assumes the crank is in it, and rods attached) and I would use a end grain block of hard wood and a mallet to shock them some. Then pour in a quarter cup of ATF (all cylinders) and then put some forward pressure on them. Put the tractor in High Gear direct drive (not TA), then take a 14 foot 4X4 and chain it to one rear wheel front and back so it sticks forward and is 4 feet off the ground. in front. Hang about 250 pounds of sand in buckets or other weight on the 4X4 at the far front end. Heating the block with a heat gun for an hour is also a positive thing to do. do not heat the pistons as much as the cylinder, It is intended to enlarge the cylinder to free the piston and rings. Removing the starter, and or bumping the starter (if the electrical system is still intact) is also positive. If a sleeve comes up with a piston, so be it. Remove it as a unit. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor of the Month - by Staff. decals, dependin upon the configuration of the parent company International Harvester in the year of production. For the purpose of this article, we will refer to the tractor as simply a "Farmall Cub". This little tractor was aimed at the needs of the small-acreage farmer - farms of 40 crop acres or less and truck gardens, or for larger farms that needed an extra tractor. Seven or eight implements were initially designed for it: Plow, Disc, Backblade, Sickle-Bar
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