Myself i have never done a narrow rim , i have done several 12 inchers. as you have a nice flat area to split and ya split the side away from the hole for the valve stem . I have a weld shop that has rolls that make me the bands and they always make them and inch or so longer . Then ya just place them on the rim and tack then ya put the bead on the band and tack it . Oh one other thing here always put indexing marks on both sides of the cut and keep them aligned . I also like to keep a little air gap between the band and the rim and bead part of the rim so that when welding ya get 100% penetration. Then also weld both sides . Keeping weld build up down saves time grinding . I cut the rim mounted on the tractor and use a steady rest to get the best cut and as straight as i can the indexing makes help with keeping the cut in register . I prefer M I G welding over stick but i can do it either way. With mig i run l56 and AG 25 with stick i use 7018 After i have it all tacked together it goes back on the tractor and is welded there . I have split both 34 and 38 inch rims . On the newer style rims that have the double mounting ribs we split them down the middle between the ribs.. But on the old 12 inch rims on M's we just split the one side . On my S/MTA i put a 4 1/4 inch band in it to mount the 16.9's . You ask why a 4 1/4 inch band ?? well by the time you make the torch cut and grind you can loose more then a 1/4 inch easy i was a 1/16 th short of 16 inches when done .
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Today's Featured Article - Bad Vibes - by Curtis Von Fange. One of the strangest ways to communicate with our tractor is to ask it how it feels. "Ask it how it feels," you say? Yup, ask it how it feels. Now, as with the other articles in this series one has to be able to hear what 'ole blue' is trying to say in response. The nice thing about our old iron friends is that they are usually quite consistent in their response, rather unlike some people I know who might change what they say due to the weather or other mitigating circumstances. But since t
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