I use a hybrid of Jim and CNKS, but then they both helped me learn so that should not be surprising. I take cardboard boxes and poke holes with a screwdriver, inserting bolts in holes. They are first cleaned on a wire bench grinder. I map the position of the bolts and where they come from on a pad of paper because you will paint over your labels on the cardboard. On reassembly I use the pad as a general guide and a parts book for exact sizes and just make sure I get the right sizes in the right places. Damage is minimal with good paint on a clean surface but I do use a small paint brush and a bit of paint in a cup to touch up the small dings from the wrench.
Nuts/washers are laid out flat and painted one side and then the other or replaced altogether with new that I have pre painted. I don't much care for wasting a lot of time on rusted nuts.
Cotters and other odd parts are either hung from wire or laid out flat and frequently just replaced with new unless they are an odd size.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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