Re: F-14 questions

Posted by Ron W on December 31, 2011 at 08:35:47 from (208.54.35.252):

In Reply to: F-14 questions posted by PartsmanTim on December 30, 2011 at 20:44:47:

Ok...heres my $1.95.......

I have many f-12/14s and have worked on way too many. They are bullet proof as long as everything is alined.

1). Check your distributor cap for shorting. Look for carbon tracking on the distributor face; use a pink eraser to clean if needed. If there is a deep ( mean really deep) worn in ring, then you need to replace it. Check to make sure you wires are right on the cap. Firing order is 1-3-4-2.

2). Timing could be off 180 degrees. Check your timing with the flywheel, compression test on #1 cylinder, and I use a soft aluminum wire sticking through the #1 spark plug hole to verify TDC. I like to time my engines so that the mag trips when the piston is just past TDC. I have never had an engine kick back when timed that way.

3). Now, I have worked on too many mags, and quite often confuse the F4 with an E4A. If you are not using either of these, then I cannot help use as I have never had any luck with the replacements such as a Fairbanks Morse and I quickly exchange them for a F4/E4A.

If my memory serves, one of the two F4/E4A has impuse or high lift points cam on cylinders 1 & 4.

4). I usually find that when the magneto magnet is low on power, then the problems occur. This is also true if you install the magnet in backwards as the magneto has been polarized and now the reversed magnet has to fight that magnetism and still have enough to jump the spark in the cylinder. If you take the magnet off, immediately put a large chunk of steel between the ends to "keep" the magnetism, hence called a keeper. If you wait a couple minutes, then the magnetism drops significantly. When I have spark problems I generally recharge the magnet and wow we"re off again. Make sure there are no cracks on the magnet. Clean the rust between the magnet and the steel part on the magneto.

5). Inside the cylinder, there is much pressure and under these conditions it takes more energy to jump accross the electrodes. I generally gap out a spark plug .125 (1/8) to test the mag outside the cylinder so that when I put the plugs back in (.020 gap) then it will work.

6). Lastly, there could be a leak between 2 & 3 such as a crack. I doubt on on a f-12/14 as I have never seen one bgi enough to cause two dead cylinders.

7). If all else fails, switch wires to see if it works better.

8). DO NOT USE carbon wires or resistor plugs. These mags don"t like them. You need to use copper wires, making sure the ends are soldered.

9). Moisture is your enemy. I take a 1 gallon plastic jug, like the ones anti-freeze comes in , cut out the side and bottom and place it over the mag. Makes the best mag cover.

Let us know how you make out.

Oh...one last thing.

PLUGS

With the f-12/14, if find that the champion plugs tend to foul out faster. Champion no longer coats the electrode with enamel, and thus being pourous, they tend to fill with gas and short out. You will still get spark with a screw driver, but no power.

Autolights work best I have found, but in any case, make surer you have good plugs, and if neccesary, exchange them to see if there is a difference.

Last, make sure there is proper valve clearance, there should be .016 when hot, I set them .020 cold then reset them once hot. If there is no valve clearance, then #2 will mess up #1 mixture, and #3 will mess up #4.

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