If the Solenoid is a Ford type, of course the big main input side is where the big + battery cable attaches plus maybe a 10 or 12 gauge that goes to the ammeter. The other big output side wires to the starter.
On the small terminals one may be labeled S and the other I ??? You wont be using the little I terminal so the one you want is S. If its not labeled, the one you need to use is whichever when hot voltage is applied (solenoid must have frame ground via its mounting bolts) makes the solenoid latch in. Just try a little jump wire with hot battery voltage n see which small terminal makes her latch USE THAT ONE.
But those solenoids are intended for starters that have a stud bolt connection for the solenoid or big cable NOT the starters that use the saddle mount mechanical push to engage start switch. Some guys jury rig the push saddle switch down so its always closed then use the solenoid with a key or push to start switch etc to start the tractor BUT I DONT LIKE THAT SET UP
If it has a good working saddle mount push to start switch you can toss the solenoid, just wire the big battery cable and the small to ammeter wire to the switch and push to start. Or the H amd M and other tractors used a big heavy pedestal mount push to start switch instead of the on starter saddle mount and it wires the same, one side to battery other down to a stud/post on the starter.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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