Lots of good advice, but not sure we know all the situation as why the pulley did not come off? I assume that soundguy "cleaned the hole, chased the threads and put in a bolt" in the end of the crankshaft as I think I read? Was there also a thick flat washer in the hole at the time the bolt was replaced? Nothing wrong with destructive disassemble at this point, but if there is a flat washer and bolt in the end of the crankshaft, splitting the hub will still be more difficult than needed. I can measure a crankshaft for the pulley bore dimensions and will post this later. Be sure to clean and measure your crankshaft carefully before buying a new pulley. There are two different size pulley bores depending on the year and method of attachment. Then follow procedures for replacement of: warm pulley to about 200 degrees, apply lubricant to shaft and slide the pulley on the shaft. With the right tool, you can press the pulley on, but that should not be needed if the shaft is properly cleaned with the correct pulley used after warming. Do not attempt to "drive" the pulley onto the shaft as you may cause the crankshaft to break sometime in the future. Then you get the fun of replacing a broken crankshaft after hearing the engine run for several hours under load. Talk about a pinched tube!!! BTDT
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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