Gordo's method is pretty solid. His example of the fender seems to be right on IMO. You can see that there were spots that were down to bare metal and other spots that had existing paint and primer on them. You have to go down to bare metal (on sheet metal) if you want a good finish.
You should use a high build primer and block it out if you want a good, smooth finish. An important thing to remember is paint fills NOTHING. It actually magnifies most imperfections. If your primed and blocked surface doesn't look just like you want your painted surface to look you have to keep sanding and priming. Body filler for minimal filling never hurts either.
I am with you. Your tractors are what I like to call "parade ready." They look good at 50' when they are always moving, but when the parade is over and you walk up to it and really look they aren't perfect. I have found any CL (or other sales place) ad that says parade ready is not up to my stadards. Most are just pressure wash and paint jobs. I REALLY hate when people just paint over bad wiring and leaky seals/gaskets.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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