Yes, without knowing what exactly you have, nobody can tell you exactly what you need. I'm gonna assume you have a stock tractor with no 2-way valve.
It's really pretty simple once you've seen it. People always think hydraulics are this mysterious complicated thing...
To get down pressure, you need a 2-way open center hydraulic valve of some sort. Originally the tractor would be equipped with the optional 2-way "christmas tree" valve mounted on the right side behind the hydraulic block.
You can use any commercially-available 2-way open center hydraulic valve. When shopping look for one with NPT ports, so you don't have to mess with adapters. Mount the valve somewhere convenient.
There are two pressure ports on the rear of the H hydraulic block. Cap one off and run a hose from the other to the IN port on the valve. Run another hose from the OUT port on the valve to one of the drain plugs on the hydraulic block.
Run a hose from one work port on the valve to the rear of the tractor. Install a TEE fitting on the end of the hose. Run two short hoses from the TEE to the SAME END of both hydraulic cylinders.
Do the same for the other work port to the other end of the cylinders.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that�s wha
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