THe radiator cap is supposed to be a slosh retainer, not a seal, it is open to the atmosphere and should be. It is a thermo siphon system and if ofer filled (like a modern car radiator) it will puke coolant and steam until it is at the correct level. (about 2.5 inches below the neck) If the coolant is covering the core with 1/2" to 3/4" it will be fine. Run it for a while with less in it to see if it is OK. There is no water pump, it circulates from density change cool radiator. hot engine. They work fine!!. If the block is filled with sediment and scale, or the radiator tubes are plugged badly, it will overheat. A radiator flush with vinegar, and removal of the water jacket plate to clean the block is about as far as needed. The hydraulics can be added with a pump mounted to the front (if it has battery start), or a belt driven pump added to the front of the engine. These take engineering skill but are possible. Leave the engine alone those numbers are OK. It is not a Kubota, or other new tractor, and they didn't pay close to those prices for it. So should they keep it. Not if they expect it to be a Kubota. Yes if they need a powerful limited pulling device, or are willing to have it upgraded to function as needed. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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