This may sound obvious, but decide up front what you mean by "restore" and draw that line in the sand PERMANENTLY.
Some guys go way better than show room condition, others are happy with a tractor that just works and is dependable.
I personally just want a working tractor that's as original as possible, one that isn't hard too look at.
I made a list of everything I want working, what it'll take to get it working, and that's my budget. I can live with some dings here and there (many actually). If something is not on my list it has to wait till my entire "project" is done.
Come winter when I'm done, I'll re-evaluate. If I want to take things further and spend more on it to make it more perfect, I'll make a new list of to-dos.
My point is, you jump into something like this and it's VERY tempting to get the best of everything and make evertyhing perfect up front. It's $100 here, $50 there. Suddenly you've spent WAY more than you thought you would and you still can't drive it because of something basic that you can no longer afford to fix.
Don't be afraid to ignore the restoration snobs (not to offend...) - and just build a working tractor if that's all you really want. (not saying it is)
Which ever way you go - keep a notebook and write down everything you do, and what you spent on parts AND tools. It can be enlightening (and depressing at the same time!)
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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