1. The two blue clamps in the 4th picture down, slide onto the square bar in your 3rd picture with the large nuts facing up. Those fit into and slide back into the keyhole holes on your cultivator lift bars. The blue assys lock into the diamond shaped part of the lift assy.
2. The extra clamps in the 3rd pix, are for attaching cultivating shanks with crows feet, hiller discs or fertilizer injectors on on them. The spade in the middle is for planting in a furrow or for potatoes. Take it off if your planting level or on a raised bed.
3. Notice the two red assys in your 7th pix. Those bolt together.
4. I would use the galvanized tube for the seeds and the rubber one for the fertilizer.
5. As to the size of the gears, Count the teeth and compare the sequence of teeth in my earlier post. It appears you have one gear on the wrong shaft. The shaft that runs under the tractor only has one gear on each end. The shaft on the seed drive unit has two gears side by side. Thats why you might have the longer chain. You can shorten the chain by holding one link in a vise and with a screwdriver and a hammer drive the other link out. Figure what length you need, take out another link then put it back together.
This post was edited by OB OBrien at 05:16:33 04/10/11.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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