First make sure it’s really a Super M! There’s a lots of regular M’s out there converted to “Super M” by a simple decal change.
Check the serial number – it should begin with either an SM or an L. Other spotting features: Engine block will be marked “C264” in large letters above the oil filter canister. Date codes on large castings will end with X or Y. Brake covers will be heavy cast iron, NOT stamped tin.
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If you establish it’s truly a Super M here are several things to check that are peculiar to the Super M:
Brakes. The SM has disc brakes. Properly maintained they work very well. However if the friction or actuating discs are worn, the shaft seals are leaking, or the brakes are simply out of adjustment, braking action can become grabby, weak or non-existent. Fortunately brakes are easy to clean/repair. Parts like friction discs however are not cheap ($100 or so for a set)
Cam gear. If the tractor is a “Stage II” (has live hydraulics) the cam gear hub can break. Symptoms can range from a mild metallic knock to loss of power to not running at all. A replacement gear is about $150. Unfortunately the front must be removed to get at the gear.
Gear shift. As end of the shift lever gets worn shifting will become sloppy. It also makes it possible to catch 2 gears at once, “locking” the transmission. Repair is simple – lay some weld on the end then grind back into shape.
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Today's Featured Article - The Day Mom Drove the 8N - by Brian Browning. My Dad was wanting to put in a garden but couldn't operate the 8N and handle the old horse drawn plow he had found and rigged up to use with the tractor. Well, he decided to go get Mom out of the house and have her drive the tractor while he walked behind the plow. You got to understand that while my Mom is a hard worker who will always help whenever she can... she had never operated farm machinery before that day. Dad got her out there, explained how the clutch was the same as in our o
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