Sure you can put them in from the bottom. It is not the best way of course, but then not everything is done the best way. One does what one has to do at the time. I am not a plasti gauge guy but if you do use it to check clearance, you need to support the crank. Easiest way is to remove cap next in line and put a piece of carboard or for a shim and tighten cap down, this will hold crank up against top so you get a better reading with the plastigauge. I prefer to use different thickness of shim stock for checking clearances, about half inch wide and length of bearing and tighten cap down and check drag. More accurate. Of course, not all agree. On that rear cap you have to use alignment dowels(anything that fits the groove nice) and a little dab of sealer on parting line of cap to block. If you have groove in crank where seal rides you can leave seal out just a hair but not so far it touches flywheel. There is also a speedy sleeve available at some parts suppliers like HY-Cap.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor of the Month - by Staff. decals, dependin upon the configuration of the parent company International Harvester in the year of production. For the purpose of this article, we will refer to the tractor as simply a "Farmall Cub". This little tractor was aimed at the needs of the small-acreage farmer - farms of 40 crop acres or less and truck gardens, or for larger farms that needed an extra tractor. Seven or eight implements were initially designed for it: Plow, Disc, Backblade, Sickle-Bar
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