Sure you can put them in from the bottom. It is not the best way of course, but then not everything is done the best way. One does what one has to do at the time. I am not a plasti gauge guy but if you do use it to check clearance, you need to support the crank. Easiest way is to remove cap next in line and put a piece of carboard or for a shim and tighten cap down, this will hold crank up against top so you get a better reading with the plastigauge. I prefer to use different thickness of shim stock for checking clearances, about half inch wide and length of bearing and tighten cap down and check drag. More accurate. Of course, not all agree. On that rear cap you have to use alignment dowels(anything that fits the groove nice) and a little dab of sealer on parting line of cap to block. If you have groove in crank where seal rides you can leave seal out just a hair but not so far it touches flywheel. There is also a speedy sleeve available at some parts suppliers like HY-Cap.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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