With the tractor in low range, step on the foot-n-inch pedal (where the clutch would be if it was a gear drive), move the hydro lever into the blue area of quadrant, half throttle or so, hold the brakes, and let out the f-n-I pedal. A good hydro will overpower the brakes. In high range, same procedure, it should stall the engine. If the hydro starts whining instead of moving, the hydro has a problem.
you can get the hyd oil warmed up some, by putting the hi-lo lever in neutral and pushing the hydro lever up about halfway, before you test the hydro. i screwed up on a 186 hydro one time by trying it when the oil was stone cold. seemed ok but it wasn't.
for $2800, i'd be tempted to take a chance, unless there is a major problem like worn out tires. i had the hydro on my 826 rebuilt at hoober's for $2300, plus i split the tractor and put it back together. i didn't think that was too bad for a new hydro. you may not even need to do that much.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: The Saga of Grandpa's Tractor - by The following saga is from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. Someone. The saga starts with the following message: Hey guys I have a decision to make. I know what you all will probably suggest and it will probably agree with me way down inside, but here it is. I have a picture blown up and framed in my "tractor room" of a Farmall M. It was my Grandpa's tractor, of which whom I never got to meet. He froze to death getting this tractor out of the barn to pull a truck out of the ditch before I was born. Anyway my dad and aunt had to sell it at the auction,
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