Thanks. I've been reading threads and looking at diagrams on this site for a long time and somehow had the idea that only the alternator wire went to ammeter + and only the ammeter - wire hooked to the starter main post.
Guess I'll buy some new 10 guage wire and terminals to redo some of that when I pull the wheel and dash this weekend. I'll check the ammeter posts as well since the negative amps doesn't read right. I'm sure I have the alternator hooked to the post that is on the same side as the plus/right side as you read the guage and the starter wire is on the left/negative side of the guage. But then if the load wire goes to the ignition switch from the gage + terminal before it would show a discharge with lights on and engine off, then I have it wired bass ackwards.
Guess I'll try to see if that is a 10si or not. Can't read anything but Delco-Remy. It is close to Bob's pic but below the "1" spade there is an "R" and below the "2" spade there is an "F". The mounting bolts are 90 degrees off from Bob's pic. Guess I'll try to get a pic to post. I know the voltage went from a moving 40-42v to a steady 15v when I shorted the #1R to the case and got a spark. Hope I didn't burn anything out. I can add a wire from the alternator to the key switch later without pulling the dash.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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