Understood you said bolt was tight in my post to you. One to OWEN A. was just to see if there was something I didn't know about the gear retaining changes. Putting a picture of shaft. Splined end is the gear mount. Race for the needle bearing is next. Needle bearing is pictured beside the shaft. Next ball bearing at rear and splined coupling that joins shaft to the next one at rear. Snap ring in the picture holds the rear ball bearing OD from moving to the rear. center housing is machined to keep it from going forward. Shaft is machined for the rear bearing ID. That along with the coupling pined to shaft keeps the bearing in place on shaft. That ball bearing handles the forward and rearward thrust of the shaft. Shaft is free to move forward and back in the needle bearing. If for some reason shaft moves to the rear enough for the drive gear to contact the needle bearing assembly it won't do it any good. If the shaft indeed has moved to the rear, thats why I suspect the ball bearing or retaining ring. Also may want to make sure the pto gear is not installed backwords on the shaft. Don't know if it would clear the housing though, never tried one backwards. Check that the top shaft has not moved forward. If it did though, most likley oil would be leaking out of the clutch compartment when running.
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Today's Featured Article - The Day Mom Drove the 8N - by Brian Browning. My Dad was wanting to put in a garden but couldn't operate the 8N and handle the old horse drawn plow he had found and rigged up to use with the tractor. Well, he decided to go get Mom out of the house and have her drive the tractor while he walked behind the plow. You got to understand that while my Mom is a hard worker who will always help whenever she can... she had never operated farm machinery before that day. Dad got her out there, explained how the clutch was the same as in our o
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