Following the diagram on a tractor with both a regulator, and a 4position switch is tough to do, as there are no correct diagrams.
Only the lights should be hooked to the light switch, there should be a wire from the amp gauge to the switch, and from the switch to the tail light, and the switch to the head lights. The wire going to the F terminal on the generator is not used at all. It should be disconnected.
One 10 gauge wire should go from the Arm terminal of the generator, to the Arm (or GEN) terminal of the regulator.
One 10 gauge wire goes from the Bat terminal of the regulator to the load side of the Amp gauge (side not hooked to the starter switch)
One 12 gauge wire from the F terminal of the GEN to the F terminal of the regulator. A very good regulator ground must be provided, as is also true of the generator frame to tractor ground. (bare metal to metal)
If it has a L terminal, it can be ignored, or it can be hooked to the light switch instead of the wire described above.
If it is not charging when wired as above, polarize the generator by: shutting it off. Using a piece of wire to jump from the Bat terminal of the regulator, to the arm terminal of the Regulator. (it will spark, it should)
then try it running.
If nothing, try using that jumper wire to ground the F terminal (running at 3/4 throttle)
It should charge (this is not dangerous or harmful to try) If it now charges, the regulator might be faulty. Keep us informed, Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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