Thanks guys on the ideas. I haven't thought of the valve gap but have done so with other tractors and have had better results from that process with them. What's the gap I need to get? Am I finding TDC on #? piston or what? Someone able to run me through the process with this tractor?
I agree that maybe the battery could be the reason as well. However I am able to rule that out as it runs that way either way. I can tell when the life of the charge is going and when it's not. Agreed I could spend some time on the battery issue and will address that as well at some point.
As to any smoke out of the stack. I have to say that it's really clear or at least what a 50 + year old tractor can have. I see a hint of white smoke and am thinking it's oil bypass. That is only present when I have "give it the gas" and then it's back to clear. It really isn't much at all when I do anyways.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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