It is not going to come off without removing the front casting. It is pressed on. It cannot be pulled with a two or three arm puller, it will break the pulley. A plate (1/2" made in a U shape to fit behind the flange will allow a good pull. Most come off with a hydraulic jack and a socket fitting down against the crank snout. The jack pulls on the U shaped plate (above with 5/8 or 3/4" ready rod and double nuts.) If it stays in the frame, a jack that pumps when horizontal is needed, or a Porta-Power. I had to put one in a 60 ton press to get it off, and it was almost 4 ton of pressure on the ram. Before reinstalling, clean everything and polish it up. Inner bore and shaft both need to be shiny. Heat the pulley to ~ 200 degrees then put it on rapidly pulling it in with the threads in the crank. Be sure there is no wear groove in the pulley where the seal rides, or put the new seal in a location that uses a different spot. Always polish the shaft roundy round not along the length to keep from wearing the seal. Put grease on the seal when putting it together to prelube it on the shiny shaft. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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