CNKS may be onto something from one of two different directions.
There were two kinds of throwout bearings for your tractor. One was a solid bearing -- it didn't turn. It was sold as a single piece, consisting of the carrier, the metal piece that rides in the fork. Molded or pressed into it was a block of a graphite compund, the face of which served as the bearing surface that pressed on the clutch fingers. The other was of a more familiar design, a rough cast but machined carrier into which fit a roller type bearing, one side of which pressed agains the clutch fingers. It's been a while since I replaced one, but I seem to recall that the fit is such that the bearing needs to be driven or pressed into the carrier for thins to line up right. That may be part of your problem.
Was your old bearing of the roller type? If not, the one thing that won't work is to try and fit a new-style roller bearing onto/into the carrier of the older graphite style bearing. It mounts into the fork the same, but is a whole different animal.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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