No split required. Pull pump out if equipped. Remove clutch shaft and related parts. Photo the coupler and be patient. Loosening the clutch disk, or putting three of the clutch cover bolts (from 120 degrees apart) into holes near the levers to compress the clutch. and holding your mouth just right will allow the shaft to come out. Then pull the flange off. a puller, or using the shaft yolk as a puller against the shaft with a socket to push on (center bolt removed) will get the drive yolk off, then just pry out the old seal. Check for a groove in the yolk, and if it is easily felt, I would speedy sleeve it, or run the new seal in a different depth to provide a good seal. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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