The reason I was thinkin' I might need to rotate the couplin' 180 is the drivein' gear to the rotor has a flat that matches with a flat on the shaft turnin' the drivein' gear.....I can't find any info in the books that says where the flat part on the shaft should point , I think it can only point in two directions , roughly up ( toward the coil) or down (toward the ground )....the gear has a small protrussion on top that matches with the flat place inside the gear that fits on the flat place on the drivein' shaft....This tractor hadn't ran in several years , I had it runnin' , fair , knew it needed points , since the dist. lays in horizontal I thought it would be easier to set the points and clean everything up if I had it out and on the bench. I might have turned the engine over (not thinkin')or who knows what At any rate I've went to TIMEIN" school on this one...guess it is schoolin' I needed.....Once I get it runnin' I'll set the valves...As it is now one lifter ( I'm not handy to the tractor now ) I think it is the exhaust , starts to get up against the vavle an is no longer free at around 32 degrees before TDC but as near as I can tell doesn't start openin' untill past TDC ...at this point #4 will have one lifter up , one down...By the way , this is a magneto dist. When I get this one straightened out , I've got to put points in a 1956 Cub...You can bet I'll go at that one more careful Thanks Wild Bill
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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