The 6,9,14,18 all use the same mechanics, albeit in different diameters and depths. A slipper can be a problem, and is not likely the oil that is the main problem. Stack height is more important, as is spring pressure, which fades over time.
Trying the solvent may help, but I have to say it isn't too likely. A side problem is that if the seal is wore out (likely) then it will leak solvent into the main gearbox. To top it off, the clutch itself can only be partly submerged before fluid will come out places you haven't thought of, like the brake linkage ports. The clutch packs themselves are very thick and without some agitating the solvent will never get deep inside the pack. When you get it apart the standard utterance is "oh, now I understand". To help penetration, driving it around with solvent is one approach. A better one is to open the clutch and pipe solvent horizontally into the exposed edge of the outer drum near the top. It will run out the bottom. Collect clean and recirculate. Warning, there is a lot of crud in these compartments. :roll:
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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