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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: C113 rebuild questions


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Posted by WellWorn on December 25, 2009 at 13:13:10 from (208.20.34.131):

In Reply to: C113 rebuild questions posted by WellWorn on December 25, 2009 at 09:06:42:

Thanks for the input, gentlemen.

While it would be nice to have a "restoration" piece, the more I look at it, this doesn't look like the machine to do it to. Even though it has passable sheet metal and looks to have weathered indoors most of it's life. More than anything, it's a small tractor to work around the farm - that's what I got it for, and that's what it's been doing for the past year.

Gene, I appreciate the info on JBWeld, and very well may just do that. At this point in time, while I hate to so something half-fast (or twice), i do need to get it going again soon, and do have a limited budget to do so.

I did go to the garage this morning and did a little grinding on the block, and see that the brazing actually goes front to back beneath the lower casting rib on the block with some bondo over most of it, and the area that was bondo only and leaking, was a split between the casting ribs on the front. There appears to be no damage internally. From what I'm beginning to gather, cracks on the manifold side aren't all that uncommon, or dysfunctional.

Yes, the engine did "bubble" hard when working, and because of the leak, a prior owner had replaced the rad cap with a pop bottle bottom to keep it unpressurized. :/ There was obviously some 'stopleak' of some sort in it too, as there were several large flakes of it in the upper hose housing when I pulled it, a goodly layer in the lower rad hose, and there appears to be a bunch of debris in the block water chambers.

ElToro, my engine casting # is 251088-R1 - I assume the one you listed is a late model SA or SC with the C123 engine? I thought I read somewhere that the early C123 water pump motors had issues with hot spots, and there was an R3 revision. Did they have thermostats, or were they open loop? From the looks of my R1 castings, it doesn't look like there is a simple way to achieve a good running temp in winter with a water pump without a thermostat, or shutters. Just how did IH do it?

Thanks again,
WellWorn


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