Haas said: (quoted from post at 07:46:19 12/14/09) I've done this job and could not get the clutch out untill I removed the clutch release fork and the cross shaft that work the fork that moves the throwout bearing. You have to remove the clutch release sleeve (I think that is what it's called)bolts that hold the sleeve to the top of the housing. The cross shaft is held in place by the clutch fork. There are two bolts and two thick washers that act as keys to hold the fork to the shaft. Remove the bolts and the thick key washers plus all the external attachments to the cross shaft and the cross shaft will slide out. When you have all that out, compress the clutch springs like the others said by putting the three bolts in the clutch plate. Now you can tilt the drive shaft and it will come out. As I recall, I got mine out with out taking out the cross shaft, but could not work it around to get it back in until I removed the cross shaft. I have complete instructions that I wrote up some where in my archives. If you want a copy, send me an E mail and I will dig up the document.
I would like a copy of the instructions if you would please. My email address is in my profile.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that�s wha
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