First to clean up your rust. I'm assuming that since you have had the water jacket cover off that there are no thick accretions of dirt, rust or sludge in there. Also, IIRC, you had your head done over so it should be clean of anything other than light rust and a little crud that might have circulated up that way.
So . . . get yourself to the supermarket and, up on the top shelf, near the 20-Mule Team Borax, you'll find an Arm and Hammer product called Super Washing Soda. It'll be in a box colored just like their baking soda, but is sodium carbonate instead of bicarbonate. Should be in a box that weighs 3lb 7oz. Then go home and dig out your officially licensed reprint of the IH Owner's Manual. Somewhere in the two or three pages devoted to maintenance of the cooling system, they will give you an amount of this washing soda to mix into fresh water to fill your cooling system.
For my SuperC's 15-qt. system, they call for two pounds. Your system is only two quarts larger, so it won't be much different, but this isn't rocket science. Get yourself a standard kitchen mop bucket, 2 gallons or so, and dump about a quarter of the box of soda into it. Stir it up to make sure it's dissolved and pour it into the radiator. Repeat. In the end you should use between half and two-thirds of the box of soda. Top off with plain water.
Then run it with the cap off until it's hot. I know your motor was a distillate, but I don't remember whether you have functioning shutters or not. If so, close them. If not, put a cut up garbage bag or a sheet of plastic over the grille (the suction of the fan will hold it in place) if you have to to get it to heat up enough to get your gauge up into the Run range and leave it run for a while. The point is to get it hot enough to open the thermostat good and wide and let the stuff circulate for a while. (Energy -- like heat -- accelerates chemical reactions.) When it cools so that the side of the crank case and head are comfortable to touch (they don't have to be stone cold, but you don't want ambient air going into a hot motor), drain it. What was brown before will have reacted with the soda and will now be black, and it will stain concrete, so catch it in pails and dump it down the drain.
Then run a hose down the spout to rinse it some, still catching your drainage.
Refill with plain water and give it another good warm run just like the last one just to stir up and flush out as much as you can of any of the soda that might have settled.
At that point any rust in there will be basically neutralized.
Let cool, drain again, and refill with 50/50 of any good antifreeze (Prestone, Zerex, Peak . . . .) Buy the straight stuff you have to mix yourself -- the premixed-50/50 is some mighty expensive water!
And the distilled water someone mentioned is a good idea. It's the only stuff to use for topping up batteries, too.
The even better part of this is that you'll have laundry powder left over for the bride, and maybe even some distilled water she can use in the iron. That might help make up for all the parts you put through the dishwasher in gettin' this rig cleaned up and runnin'!
(You do know that women having smaller feet than men is an evolutionary development. It lets them stand up closer to the kitchen sink.)
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Today's Featured Article - Show Coverage: Godfrey, Illinois Country Days - by Cindy Ladage. Except for last fourth of July's Old Gold show in Springfield, Illinois, I don't remember when it was so hot. Nevertheless, the heat didn't keep vendors and visitors alike from enjoying the third annual Country Day's Event. Jane Elliott said the event was originally a one man show. "Barry Seiler, owner of Country Town Farm Supply store used to invite people up to the Johne Deere store. He would give hats and a free meal for everyone that brings a tractor." Elliott said while this
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