IMHO the blue wrench is essential to extracting rusted/frozen bolts with some degree of restraint.
I like to get a pilot hole started as close to the center as I can...use a dremel or die grinder to smooth out and spot-face the place where you'll drill the pilot hole.
I have a set of 4-fluted ez-outs (McMaster Carr) which are not prone to break off like the reverse-twist versions we all love to hate. Instead these simply lose traction and slip.
Once the pilot hole is ready, I'll get out the blue wrench and heat to a dull red color. Then work quickly to hammer in the ez out and attempt to remove it with a short crescent wrench or better yet a tap handle if you are better equipped.
If you hear a loud squeak...then you've got it...but it needs some lube. Kroil or actually even a drop of motor oil will help penetrate to the source and to help smooth the reversal.
The other technique...is to setup the part in a milling machine or drill press and use a left-handed drill bit. While not suitable for an M-engine still mounted in the tractor the degree of success is quite high when one can make this happen on a smaller piece. Usually you can also center well enough to be able to drill back out to the minor diameter or slightly less, remove the thread crests as a coil of wire, and then retap the hole to cleanup.
Best of luck.
This post was edited by mattofvinings at 16:21:44 09/03/09.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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