Scott you need to double the RPM you have listed when checking at the crankshaft. Pays to see what parts are in the advance units and shape before setting distributor to full advance at crank with a light and ignoring static timing. Lots of M and other had fire crater piston sets installed along the way and the had parts to change the rate and total on advance. Even parts to change magnetos were furnished for some kits. I guess they still sell what I call set back timing lights, haven't looked in years mine still works. You can adjust it to read advance on the TDC timing marks, say when the engine is wide open and at 40 degrees advance the light can be adjusted to light up at the static timming mark. How time flies that light is probably a antique from 40 years ago, back in hot roding days. If I misunderstood your answer, sorry.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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